Many models for forecasting ocean waves simplify the physics by assuming that waves are essentially two-dimensional, like a long breaker heading toward shore. But in the open ocean, waves often come from more than one direction; crossing seas are a good example. When waves from different directions combine, a recent study shows, the resulting wave can grow far larger and steeper than expected. These monstrous rogue waves are especially dangerous for offshore infrastructure like oil rigs and wind turbines, which must be built to withstand rare but extreme waves. (Image credit: O. Мороз; research credit: M. McAllister et al.; via Gizmodo)
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Water Suspected Beneath Mars
The surface features of Mars — crossed by river deltas and sedimentary deposits — indicate a watery past. Where that water went after the planet lost its atmosphere 3 – 4 billion years ago is an open question. But a new study suggests that quite a bit of that water moved underground rather than escaping to space.
The research team analyzed seismic data from the Mars InSight Lander. Marsquakes and meteor strikes on the Red Planet send seismic waves through the planet’s interior. The waves’ speed and other characteristics change as they pass through different materials, and by comparing different waves picked up from the same originating source, scientists can back out what the waves passed through on the way to the detector. In this case, the team concluded that the data best fit a layer of water-filled fractured igneous rock 11.5 – 20 kilometers below the surface. They estimate that the water trapped in this subsurface layer is enough to cover the surface of the planet in a 1 – 2 kilometer deep ocean. (Image credit: NASA/JPL-Caltech; research credit: V. Wright et al.; via Physics World)
Beneath the Surf
A surfer duck-dives beneath a passing wave in this image from photographer John Barton. I always love seeing big waves from this underwater perspective. The turbulent surf looks like storm clouds, and sometimes you see features that are invisible from the surface. Barton’s shot captures the dichotomy of serenity and chaos in the breaking surf. (Image credit: J. Barton/OPOTY; via Colossal)
Paris 2024: Gunwale Bobbing
In the Olympics, you won’t see anyone win a rowing event without a paddle, but it turns out that you don’t really need one for a canoe or paddleboard. How can you get around when you’ve lost your paddle? You stand up on one end and start bobbing. This is known as gunwale (pronounced gunnel) bobbing, and it’s pretty impressively effective! With optimal parameters, scientists found that a canoe could move about 1 m/s with the technique.
As the bobber pushes, it generates an asymmetric wave field on the water surface. The canoe or paddleboard then essentially surfs those waves, turning the vertical displacement into a horizontal thrust. The researchers expect that the effect matters for competitive rowing, too, where the athletes’ rowing motions cause some vertical displacement. Clearly, the biggest effect comes from the oars themselves, but optimal bobbing could provide enough of an edge to ensure the gold. (Image credit: top – R. Chisu; others – G. Benham et al.; research credit: G. Benham et al.; via APS Physics; submitted by Kam-Yung Soh)
Related topics: Optimizing oar length, vorticity around an oar, and a vibration-propelled biorobot
See more of our past and ongoing Olympic coverage here.
Paris 2024: Triathlon Swimming
Unlike the swimming competition, Olympic triathletes complete their swim legs in open waters. There are no lane dividers and no rules against drafting off a fellow athlete. Curious to see how draft positioning could affect swimmers, researchers experimented with swimmer-shaped models in a water channel and a numerical simulation. They found that the most advantageous position is directly behind a lead swimmer, where the follower could enjoy a 40% reduction in drag. Another good position is near the leader’s hip, where waves off the leader provide a 30% reduction in drag.
The worst place to swim, interestingly, is immediately side-by-side. With both swimmers neck-in-neck, drag is maximized, and each swimmer feels more drag than they would swimming by themselves! (Image credit: J. Romero; research credit: B. Bolan et al.)
Related topics: Drafting in each triathlon stage and drafting effects in nordic skiing
Join us all this week and next for more Olympics-themed stories.
Searching for Stability in Cleaner Flames
Spiking natural gas power plants with hydrogen could help them burn cleaner as we transition away from carbon power. But burners in power plants and jet engines can be extremely finicky, thanks to thermoacoustic instabilities. As a flame burns, it can sputter and fluctuate in its heat output. That creates pressure oscillations (which we sometimes hear as sound waves) that reflect off the burner’s walls and return toward the flame, causing further fluctuations. This feedback loop can be destructive enough to explode combustion chambers.
Adding hydrogen to a burner designed purely for natural gas can trigger these instabilities (above image), but researchers hope that by exploring fuel-mixtures and their effect at lab-scale, they can help designers find safe ways to adapt industrial burners for the cleaner fuel mixture. (Image and research credit: B. Ahn et al.; via APS Physics)
Kelvin-Helmholtz and the Sun
Kelvin-Helmholtz instabilities (KHI) are a favorite among fluid dynamicists. They resemble the curls of a breaking ocean wave — not a coincidence, since KHI create those ocean waves to begin with — and show up in picturesque clouds, Martian lava coils, and Jovian cloud bands. The instability occurs when two layers of fluid move at different speeds and the friction between them causes wrinkles that grow into waves.
Scientists have long suspected that KHI could occur in solar phenomena, too, like the coronal mass ejections that drive space weather. The Parker Solar Probe, a spacecraft designed to explore the sun, caught evidence of a series of turbulent eddies during a 2021 coronal mass ejection, and a recent study of those observations shows that the series of vortices are consistent with KHI. Put simply, the team found that the features are spaced and aligned as we’d expect for KHI and, during the probe’s measurements, the features grew at the rate Kelvin-Helmholtz eddies would. Although the instability itself may be common in the sun’s corona, it’s unlikely that we’ll see it often, simply because conditions need to be just right for them to be visible. (Image credit: NASA/Johns Hopkins APL/NRL/Guillermo Stenborg and Evangelos Paouris; research credit: E. Paouris et al.; via Gizmodo)
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Black Holes in a Blender
Massive black holes drag and warp the spacetime around them in extreme ways. Observing these effects firsthand is practically impossible, so physicists look for laboratory-sized analogs that behave similarly. Fluids offer one such avenue, since fluid dynamics mimics gravity if the fluid viscosity is low enough. To chase that near-zero viscosity, experimentalists turned to superfluid helium, a version of liquid helium near absolute zero that flows with virtually no viscosity. At these temperatures, vorticity in the helium shows up as quantized vortices. Normally, these tiny individual vortices repel one another, but a spinning propeller — much like the blades of a blender — draws tens of thousands of these vortices together into a giant quantum vortex.
Here superfluid helium whirls in a quantum vortex. With that much concentrated vorticity, the team saw interactions between waves and the vortex surface that directly mirrored those seen in black holes. In particular, they detail bound states and black-hole-like ringdown phenomena. Now that the apparatus is up and running, they hope to delve deeper into the mechanics of their faux-black holes. (Image credit: L. Solidoro; research credit: P. Švančara et al.; via Physics World)
Seeking Rogue Wave Origins
Rogue waves — rare waves much larger than any surrounding waves — have long been a part of sailors’ tales, but their existence has only been confirmed relatively recently. The exact mechanisms behind them are still a matter of debate. Laboratory experiments with mechanically-produced waves have created miniature rogue waves, but we still lack real-world observations of their formation.
To that end, researchers sailed the Southern Ocean, known for its rough waves, during austral winter and observed the state of the wind and waves nearby using stereo cameras. They found that young wind-driven waves tend to be steeper, and they move slower than the wind, as they’re still drawing energy from it. Older waves, in contrast, were shorter, less steep, and less likely have white caps from breaking. Overall, they found that strong winds could more easily drive young waves into the nonlinear growth that leads to rogue waves. (Image credit: S. Baisch; research credit: A. Toffoli et al.; via APS Physics)
Floating in Sync
Objects on a vibrating liquid bath can interact with each other through the waves they make as they bounce. Here, researchers look at three-armed spinners interacting in pairs and in larger groups. A pair of spinners can synchronize so that they spin together or so that they spin in opposing phases. With more spinners, more complex patterns are possible. The spinners can even “freeze” one another by forming a pattern of standing waves that keep them locked in their orientation. (Video and image credit: J. Barotta et al.; via GoSM)
