FYFD

Tag: ocean waves

  • Reader Question: Wave Vortex

    Reader Question: Wave Vortex

    Reader unquietcode asks:

    I saw this post recently and it made me wonder what’s going on. If you look in the upper right of the frame as the camera submerges, you can see a little vortex of water whirring about. Even with the awesome power of the wave rolling forward a little tornado of water seems able to stably form. Any idea what causes this phenomenon?

    This awesome clip was taken from John John Florence’s “& Again” surf video. What you’re seeing is the vortex motion of a plunging breaking wave. As ocean waves approach the shore, the water depth decreases, which amplifies the wave’s height. When the wave reaches a critical height, it breaks and begins to lose its energy to turbulence. There are multiple kinds of breaking waves, but plungers are the classic surfer’s wave. These waves become steep enough that the top of the wave  overturns and plunges into the water ahead of the wave. This generates the vortex-like tube you see in the animation. Such waves can produce complicated three-dimensional vortex structures like those seen in this video by Clark Little. Any initial variation in the main vortex gets stretched as the wave rolls on, and this spins up and strengthens the rib vortices seen wrapped around the primary vortex. (Source video: B. Kueny and J. Florence)

  • Wave Tank

    Wave Tank

    A new wave tank facility opening at the University of Edinburgh promises new capabilities to simulate ocean wave behavior. The circular 25m diameter wave tank is lined with 168 wave makers and is equipped with 28 submerged flow-drive units. Together, these allow the tank to simultaneously simulate nearly any wave type as well as tidal currents up to 1.6 m/s. The facility is intended for 1/20th scale modeling; projected to full-size, this means that the tank is capable of making waves representative of 28 m high ocean waves and tidal currents in excess of 12 knots. It’s expected to be particularly valuable in the development and testing of wave and tidal motion generators for clean energy. For more, see BBC News and FloWave’s own website.  (Image credit: Brightspace/BBC News; submitted by srikard)

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    Kelvin-Helmholtz in the Lab

    The Kelvin-Helmholtz instability looks like a series of overturning ocean waves and occurs between layers of fluids undergoing shear. This video has a great lab demo of the phenomenon, including the set-up prior to execution. When the tank is tilted, the denser dyed salt water flows left while the fresh water flows to the right. These opposing flow directions shear the interface between the two fluids, which, once a certain velocity is surpassed, generates an instability in the interface. Initially, this disturbance is much too small to be seen, but it grows at an exponential rate. This is why nothing appears to happen for many seconds after the tilt before the interface suddenly deforms, overturns, and mixes. In actuality, the unstable perturbation is present almost immediately after the tilt, but it takes time for the tiny disturbance to grow. The Kelvin-Helmholtz instability is often seen in clouds, both on Earth and on other planets, and it is also responsible for the shape of ocean waves. (Video credit: M. Hallworth and G. Worster)

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    How Tsunamis Cross the Ocean

    Last week an earthquake in Chile raised concerns over a possible tsunami in the Pacific. This animation shows a simulation of how waves would spread from the quake’s epicenter over the course of about 30 hours. In the open ocean, a tsunami wave can travel as fast as 800 kph (~500 mph), but due to its very long wavelength and small amplitude (< 1 m), such waves are almost unnoticeable to ships. It’s only near coastal areas, when the water shallows, that the wave train slows down and increases in height. Early in the video, the open ocean wave heights are only centimeters; note how, at the end of the video, the wave run-up heights along the coast are much larger, including the nearly 2 meter waves that impacted Chile. The power of the incoming waves in a tsunami are not their only danger, though; the force of the wave getting pulled back out to sea can also be incredibly destructive. (Video credit: NOAA/NWS/Pacific Tsunami Warning Center; via Wired)

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    Harnessing Ocean Waves

    Ocean waves contain substantial amounts of energy, and many projects are underway to harness them as renewable energy sources. Most of these projects use the motion caused by waves to generate electrical energy. In this example, a flexible carpet is attached to hydraulic pumps. As the waves move over the carpet, it oscillates, raising and lowering the piston of the pumps. This adds hydraulic pressure to the discharge lines that run from the wave carpet to the shore. Once on dry land, that hydraulic pressure can be converted to electrical energy. This design addresses one of the major challenges in ocean-wave-energy technologies–namely how to safely transmit power from the wave farm to the shore. (Video credit: University of California Television)

  • Tidal Bore

    Tidal Bore

    The daily ebb and flood of the tides results from the competing forces of the Earth’s rotation and the sun and moon’s gravitational pull on the oceans. In a few areas, the local topography funnels the incoming water into a tidal bore with a distinctive leading edge. The photo above comes from the Turnagain Arm of the Cook Inlet in Alaska, where bore tides can reach a height of 7 ft and move as quickly as 15 mph. For surfers, the bore can provide a long ride–40 minutes in this case–but they can be extremely dangerous as well. Bore tides are associated with intense turbulence capable of ripping out moorings and structures; the waves are often accompanied by a roar caused by air entrainment, impact on obstacles, and the erosion of underlying sediment.  (Photo credit: S. Dickerson/Red Bull Illume; via Jennifer Ouellette)