FYFD

Tag: ocean waves

  • Reader Question: White Caps

    Reader Question: White Caps

    Reader eclecticca asks:

    I really like the last two posts about waves, and they left me with another question…  My dad had a little boat he used to take us ocean fishing on quite a bit.  I always noticed that some days we just had big waves (swells) when out from the coastline and in fairly deep water (a hundred feet to hundreds of feet according to the depth sounder) and other days those swells would “break” and curl and foam and crash in on themselves, being what we called “breakers” or “white caps”.  There is no shore to create the breakers in this case, so what is happening?  Is it due to wind? current  a combination of factors?    Always been kind of curious about this really…

    You’re exactly right: those open ocean white caps are due to wind. Strictly speaking, the wind is what’s causing all* of the waves out in open, deep waters. But once the wind is strong enough, it starts breaking up the crests of waves, creating those foamy white tops. 

    According to one study, the break-up happens when the wind transfers more energy to the wave than surface tension can withstand. When the wave crest breaks up into a mixture of air, spray, and foam, it effectively gives the wind more surface area to push against and continue transferring energy. (Image credit: M. Moers)

    * With a few notable exceptions, like in the case of a tsunami.

  • Reader Question: Waves Breaking

    Reader Question: Waves Breaking

    As a follow-up to the recent waves post, reader robotslenderman asks:

    What does it look like when the wave breaks? And why do waves sometimes push us back? Why are we able to ride them?

    I wasn’t able to find an equivalent breaking wave version of that dyed wave – side note: readers with flumes, please feel free to make one and share it! – but here’s an undyed breaking wave for our reference.

    Waves break, or get that white, frothy look, when they reach shallower water. In the previous post, the waves we saw were effectively deep-water waves, so they didn’t change in height as they rolled across the tank. Here there’s an incline to simulate a beach, which causes the water to slow down and steepen. That forms the characteristic curl of a plunging breaker, seen here.

    At the beach, a wave runs out of water to pass through and all the energy that wave was carrying has to go somewhere. Some is lost as heat, some turns into the sound of that classic crashing wave, and a lot of it gets dissipated as turbulence that pushes us, sand, shells, and anything else its way.

    As for why we can ride waves, there’s some special physics at play when it comes to surfing. To catch a wave, a surfer has to paddle hard to get up to the wave’s speed just as it reaches them. Too slow and the wave will just pass them by, leaving them bobbing more or less in place. (Image credit: T. Shand, source)

  • Hiding From Waves

    Hiding From Waves

    Ocean waves can be dangerous for boats, particularly when operating near off-shore platforms. But a new study, inspired by electromagnetic waveguides, demonstrates a lab-scale water waveguide capable of damping out a range of waves experienced by any ship inside its protected area. The water waveguide sits below the surface, changing the water depth and therefore the propagation of surface waves. 

    When properly positioned, the waveguide nearly eliminates wave motion in a protected channel. You can see this in the right image, where waves are clearly present in the foreground but the toy boat hardly moves. Contrast this with the image on the left, where the boat bobs and rocks under the same wave conditions without the waveguide. The researchers hope their waveguide concept can help protect ships in wharves and harbors soon. (Image and research credit: S. Zou et al.; via APS Physics; submitted by Kam-Yung Soh)

  • Featured Video Play Icon

    “In Perpetual Motion”

    “In Perpetual Motion” follows adventure photographer Krystle Wright underwater where the roiling of the ocean sometimes makes time seem to stop, transporting her to another place entirely. To me, the underside of the ocean’s surface evokes storm clouds and memories of sitting at the bottom of the pool staring up at the way light played on the surface. How about you? What do you see when the waves roll overhead? (Video and image credit: K. Wright et al.)

  • Rogue Waves

    Rogue Waves

    After centuries of tales from sailors, in 1995 the Draupner off-shore platform recorded the first ever evidence of a freak wave – a single, wall-like wave steeper and taller than any other waves around it. Theories have been tossed back and forth for the last quarter century as to how the Draupner wave formed, but now a group of researchers report they have recreated a lab-scale version of this is famous wave. 

    They did so in a wave pool by making two smaller groups of waves cross one another at about 120 degrees (top). The interaction of those wave packets generated a much larger, steeper wave (bottom image sequence) that matched the profile of the Draupner wave. Recreating this past freak wave confirms that wave-crossing can lead to freak waves, which will hopefully help us forecast when conditions may be right for more to occur. (Image credit and research credit: M. McAllister et al., source; via Motherboard; submitted by Kam-Yung Soh)

  • Waves

    Waves

    Photographer Ray Collins is known for his striking portraits of waves, some of which I’ve featured on previous occasions. Collins is colorblind, so he focuses heavily on shape and texture in the wave, which produces some stunningly dramatic views of moving water frozen in time. There’s great power and beauty in breaking waves, and researchers are still actively learning just how significant they are to our planet’s cycles. 

    Note the spray blurring the edges of every wave here; these are some of the largest droplets the wave will make. As it crashes forward, the wave traps pockets of air, and, as those bubbles burst, they will create a spray of tinier droplets that carry moisture and salt into the atmosphere to seed clouds and, eventually, rain.

    Collins’ work reminds us both of the ocean’s power and its fragility as it undergoes rapid changes due to humanity’s influence. For more photos as well as a great interview with Collins, check out My Modern Met. (Image credit: R. Collins; via My Modern Met and James H.)

  • Sunglinting Seas

    Sunglinting Seas

    Sunlight reflecting off the Earth can reveal a remarkably rich picture of our planet’s activity. The silver-gray areas seen in this satellite image are sunglint, where lots of light is reflected back to space. Sunglint occurs in regions with very few waves; more waves – like in the bluer areas – mean more directions in which light can be scattered. The reason for these rough and smooth waters is atmospheric: the prevailing summer winds blow across the Aegean from the north. In open water, that wind drives up the waves, but rocky islands disrupt the flow, leaving “wind shadows” on their southern, leeward sides where the waves are smaller. (Image credit: J. Schmaltz; via NASA Earth Observatory)

  • Featured Video Play Icon

    Hawaii’s Lava

    Sometimes the best way to appreciate a flow is standing still. In “Hawaii – The Pace of Formation” filmmakers explore how the Big Island is constantly changing, from fresh lava flows to towering waterfalls. Much of the footage presented is timelapse, which gives viewers a different perspective on familiar subjects; it highlights the similarities between clouds and the ocean, and it reminds us that a lava flow and the syrup flowing down a stack of pancakes have a lot in common. To me, this is one of the most beautiful parts of fluid dynamics: physics of flows on different length-scales and time-scales – even in different fluids – are still very much the same. (Video credit: A. Mendez et al.)

  • Breaking Wave

    Breaking Wave

    This animation shows a cinemagraph of a breaking wave photographed by Ray Collins. The motion was inferred and digitally added by a second artist, Jersey Maria. The result is hypnotic, as if we are traveling beside the wave and watching it tear apart ever so slowly. The wave seems to be poised on a tipping point, only breaking up along its back edge, when instinct tells us it will keep steepening and tipping forward until its top curl crashes down in a wave of white foam. Surf photography like Collins’ work shows us an alternative perspective on waves, their power frozen into a single instant. Reanimated, it feels like we’re seeing the wave in hyper-slow-motion, watching every tiny movement of water before everything crashes down. Even if it’s not physically realistic, it is an awesome view.  (Image credit: R. Collins / J. Maria, source, original; via Iwan A.)

  • Breaking Soon

    Breaking Soon

    Australian photographer Warren Keelan captures spectacular photos of waves just before and during the moment they break. Fluid dynamics is defined by motion – specifically the motion of substances that do not hold a single form – but one thing I love about wave photography is how crisp and solid water appears when frozen in time. In a way, it feels like a reminder that, even though we classify matter into different states, ultimately those states have a lot in common. (Image credit: W. Keelan; via Colossal)