Sunglint on the ocean surface can sometimes reveal different patterns in wave conditions. In the satellite photo above, we see the Canary Islands with wavering silvery wakes stretching to the southwest. The predominant wind direction over the islands is from the northeast. The rocky islands act as a wind-break, redirecting the flow and shadowing the ocean in their wake from much of it. As a result, fewer waves are stirred up in the islands’ wakes, thereby changing the local surface reflection properties and making this image possible. (Photo credit: NASA Earth Observatory)
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Reader Question: More Standing Waves
corroding-touch asks:
So, further to the wave question, how about pressure? How does the pressure in a fixed spot beneath a wave vary, and how does this change with depth?
The primary factor for pressure at any point in the water is depth. Deeper water means a higher pressure. So if you imagine your fixed point at a particular depth relative to a flat ocean, it will have some nominal pressure dependent on its depth. Waves passing induce a higher-than-nominal pressure at the fixed point as the crest passes overhead and a lower-than-nominal pressure as the trough passes. Basically, the waves cause a fluctuation in pressure around some nominal point. As you increase in depth, the fluctuation will have less and less effect because the nominal pressure is ever increasing.

Reader Question: Standing Waves
captainandry asks:
What would happen to a fish or swimmer in a standing wave?
First of all, check out the video that inspired this question, which shows a standing water wave created in a wave tank. Before we tackle the standing wave, it’s helpful to know what motion exists in a typical water wave. For deep water waves, the motion of a particle as the waves pass is circular, with a decreasing radius with increasing depth. Below a certain depth the energy of the surface wave doesn’t penetrate. Here’s an animation, where the red dots represent massless particles and the blue circles show their paths:

In shallower waters, the circular paths get compressed into ellipses. The image below shows pathlines for particles at different depths as a water wave passes. Notice how the paths are circular near the surface, where the depth is much greater than the wavelength, while close to the bottom, the pathlines are elliptical.

So what about motion for a standing water wave? Such a wave has no apparent horizontal motion, as seen in the animation below:

Similar to the way that decreasing the depth compresses the circular particle motion into an ellipsoid, creating a standing wave compresses the horizontal motion of any particle near the surface. What this means is that anything floating near the surface of the standing wave will simply bob up and down. Unless it’s located at one of the nodes (marked by red dots), in which case it won’t move at all! As with the other types of water waves, the amount of displacement will decrease with depth. People and fish, of course, are not massless particles, so their motion will be damped by inertia, but the same principles apply.
(Photo credits: P. Videtich; R. L. Wiegel and J.W. Johnson; Wikipedia)

Under the Waves
When I was a kid, I liked to dive underwater in the pool and sit at the bottom, looking up at the peculiar dancing sky the water made overhead. Photographer Mark Tipple takes it further, capturing images of the ocean from below the surface as waves roll in. His photos show swimmers and surfers diving to escape a roiling wave that, from below, bears a surreal similarity to the underside of a thundercloud in a summer storm. This is part of the beauty of fluid dynamics. Despite their differences, water and air obey the same physics. (Photo credits: Mark Tipple; via io9)

Shock Waves in Flight
Schlieren photography allows visualization of density gradients, such as the sharp ones created by shock waves off this T-38 aircraft flying at Mach 1.1 around 13,000 ft. Although shock waves are relatively weak at this low supersonic Mach number, they persist, as seen in the image, at significant distances from the craft. The sonic boom associated with the passage of such a vehicle overhead is due to the pressure change across a shock wave. The higher the altitude of the supersonic craft, the less intense its shock wave, and thus sonic boom, will be by the time it reaches ground level. (Photo credit: NASA)

Ocean Waves in the Sky
These wave-like Kelvin-Helmholtz clouds can form due to shear between different layers of air in the atmosphere. When one region of air has a higher velocity than the other, their interface forms a shear layer, which can break down in this wavy pattern. In this case, the lower layer of air was moist enough to form condensation and clouds, making the pattern visible to the naked eye. (Photo credit: Gene Hart; via Flow Visualization)

Fluorescing Shock Waves
Wind tunnel testing plays a major role in the planning of many space missions. Here a model of the Mars Sample Return Orbiter is tested at Mach 10 to determine the heat shield’s response to aerobraking off Mars’ atmosphere. The colors are the result of electron beam fluorescence, in which an electron gun is used to ionize molecules in the flow, which causes them to emit photons (light). The technique can be used for flow visualization–as in the case of the shock waves shown here–or to measure flow characteristics like density, temperature, and velocity. (Photo credit: Thierry Pot/DAFE/ONERA)

Supersonic Bubble Shock Waves
Supercomputing has been an enormous boon to fluid dynamics over the past few decades. Many problems, like the interaction between a supersonic shock wave and a bubble, are too complicated for analytical solutions and difficult to measure experimentally. Numerical simulation of the problem, combined with visualization of key variables, adds invaluable understanding. Here a shock wave strikes a helium bubble at Mach 3, and the subsequent interactions in terms of density and vorticity are shown. This situation is relevant to a number of applications, such as supersonic combustion and shockwave lithotripsy–a medical technique in which kidney stones are broken up inside the body using shock waves. After impact, an air jet forms and penetrates the center of the structure while the outer regions mix and form a persistent vortex ring. (Video credit: B. Hejazialhosseini et al.; via Physics Buzz)

How Are Sea Waves Created?
There are many different kinds of sea waves, some of which have fluid dynamical origins and some of which don’t. For example, tsunamis are caused by the sudden displacement of the ocean floor caused by earthquakes and the tides are caused by the pull of the moon on Earth’s oceans. But many of the waves we are accustomed to seeing are caused by the wind moving across open water, whether in the ocean, in a lake or a sea, or even a river or pond. When the wind blows across the free surface of the water, the difference in velocity between the two fluids causes shearing and the development of surface waves as a result of the Kelvin-Helmholtz instability. (Incidentally, this is why other examples of the K-H instability look so much like ocean waves.)
These wind-generated waves can take several forms. Ripples–or capillary waves–remain visible only as long as the wind is blowing. But under steady conditions, or after the wind has affected a large enough area, waves can form that will persist at the surface even if the wind stops blowing. At that point, even though the wind generated the waves, it is gravity that allows them to persist. This is the source of most of the waves we see on large bodies of water. (Photo credit: Travis Weins)




