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Search results for: “waves”

  • Testing Waves in High Gravity

    Testing Waves in High Gravity

    Where waves crash and meet, turbulence is inevitable. But exactly how large waves interact — whether in the ocean, in plasma, or the atmosphere — is far from understood. A new experiment is teasing out a better physical understanding by tweaking a variable that’s been hard to change: gravity.

    To do so, the researchers conduct their experiments in a large-diameter centrifuge (shown above) where they can create effective gravitational forces as high as 20 times Earth’s gravity. This increases the range of frequencies where gravity-dominated waves occur by an order of magnitude.

    By studying this extended frequency range, the authors found something unexpected: the timescales of wave interactions did not depend on wave frequency, as predicted by theory. Instead, those interactions were dictated by the longest available wavelength in the system, a parameter set by the size of the container. It will be interesting to see if future work can confirm that result with even larger containers. (Image credit: ocean waves – M. Power, others – A. Cazaubiel et al.; research credit: A. Cazaubiel et al.; via APS Physics; submitted by Kam-Yung Soh)

  • High Gravity Waves

  • Rogue Waves

  • Waves on a Supercell

    Waves on a Supercell

    This Colorado supercell thunderstorm features an unusual twist. Notice the sawtooth-like protrusions along the outer cloud wall. These are Kelvin-Helmholtz waves, like these fair-weather clouds we’ve seen before, but instead of occurring vertically, they project horizontally! That implies that the invisible layer of air just outside the cloud wall is moving faster than the wall itself. That creates shear along the outer edge of the cloud wall and causes these waves to form. This is the first time I’ve ever seen this sort of thing. What an awesome photo! (Image credit: M. Charnick; submitted by jpshoer)

  • Diamond-Shaped Waves

    Diamond-Shaped Waves

    Strong winds blowing across Lake Michigan created this diamond-shaped wave pattern after the incoming waves reflected off the breakwater on the right. The formal name for these waves are clapotis gaufré, meaning “waffled standing waves”. As seen in the animation above, the waves aren’t perfect standing waves; otherwise they would stay in one place rather than propagating toward shore. This happens because the angle of reflection is not exactly 90 degrees.

    As neat as clapotis gaufré waves look, they’re a significant problem for the builders of coastal infrastructure. The waves generate vortices underwater that are extremely good at eroding underlying sediment. (Image and video credit: T. Wenzel; via EPOD; submitted by Vince D.)

  • Waves in the Sky

    Waves in the Sky

    Even when the sky is mostly blue, there’s a lot going on at different altitudes. The winds do not move in a consistent direction or at the same speed, something which becomes apparent when watching clouds move relative to one another. When different layers of air move past one another, there is shear between them, not unlike the friction you feel when running your hand along a table. Under the right circumstances, this shear creates Kelvin-Helmholtz waves like the ones in this image over Helena Valley, Montana. Fast-moving winds (blowing right to left in the image) above a layer of clouds created these breaking wave-like curls. The same phenomenon creates many of the ocean’s waves from the shear caused by wind blowing across water. (Image credit: H. Martin, via EPOD)

  • Reader Question: Waves Breaking

    Reader Question: Waves Breaking

    As a follow-up to the recent waves post, reader robotslenderman asks:

    What does it look like when the wave breaks? And why do waves sometimes push us back? Why are we able to ride them?

    I wasn’t able to find an equivalent breaking wave version of that dyed wave – side note: readers with flumes, please feel free to make one and share it! – but here’s an undyed breaking wave for our reference.

    Waves break, or get that white, frothy look, when they reach shallower water. In the previous post, the waves we saw were effectively deep-water waves, so they didn’t change in height as they rolled across the tank. Here there’s an incline to simulate a beach, which causes the water to slow down and steepen. That forms the characteristic curl of a plunging breaker, seen here.

    At the beach, a wave runs out of water to pass through and all the energy that wave was carrying has to go somewhere. Some is lost as heat, some turns into the sound of that classic crashing wave, and a lot of it gets dissipated as turbulence that pushes us, sand, shells, and anything else its way.

    As for why we can ride waves, there’s some special physics at play when it comes to surfing. To catch a wave, a surfer has to paddle hard to get up to the wave’s speed just as it reaches them. Too slow and the wave will just pass them by, leaving them bobbing more or less in place. (Image credit: T. Shand, source)

  • How Waves Travel

    How Waves Travel

    When playing in the surf, it’s easy to imagine that the incoming waves are a wall of water crashing into the shore. And, in a way they are, but probably less so than you imagine. Waves travel through a medium, whether it’s solid or fluid, but for the most part, they’re not translating the medium itself. You can see that in the animation above by watching the dye beneath the surface. The passing waves don’t cause much mixing in the dye, and though their passage distorts the underlying water, we see that everything returns more or less to its starting position once the wave has passed. (Image credit: S. Morris, source)

  • Sound Waves

  • Hiding From Waves

    Hiding From Waves

    Ocean waves can be dangerous for boats, particularly when operating near off-shore platforms. But a new study, inspired by electromagnetic waveguides, demonstrates a lab-scale water waveguide capable of damping out a range of waves experienced by any ship inside its protected area. The water waveguide sits below the surface, changing the water depth and therefore the propagation of surface waves. 

    When properly positioned, the waveguide nearly eliminates wave motion in a protected channel. You can see this in the right image, where waves are clearly present in the foreground but the toy boat hardly moves. Contrast this with the image on the left, where the boat bobs and rocks under the same wave conditions without the waveguide. The researchers hope their waveguide concept can help protect ships in wharves and harbors soon. (Image and research credit: S. Zou et al.; via APS Physics; submitted by Kam-Yung Soh)

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