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Search results for: “waves”

  • Diamond-Shaped Waves

    Diamond-Shaped Waves

    Strong winds blowing across Lake Michigan created this diamond-shaped wave pattern after the incoming waves reflected off the breakwater on the right. The formal name for these waves are clapotis gaufré, meaning “waffled standing waves”. As seen in the animation above, the waves aren’t perfect standing waves; otherwise they would stay in one place rather than propagating toward shore. This happens because the angle of reflection is not exactly 90 degrees.

    As neat as clapotis gaufré waves look, they’re a significant problem for the builders of coastal infrastructure. The waves generate vortices underwater that are extremely good at eroding underlying sediment. (Image and video credit: T. Wenzel; via EPOD; submitted by Vince D.)

  • Waves in the Sky

    Waves in the Sky

    Even when the sky is mostly blue, there’s a lot going on at different altitudes. The winds do not move in a consistent direction or at the same speed, something which becomes apparent when watching clouds move relative to one another. When different layers of air move past one another, there is shear between them, not unlike the friction you feel when running your hand along a table. Under the right circumstances, this shear creates Kelvin-Helmholtz waves like the ones in this image over Helena Valley, Montana. Fast-moving winds (blowing right to left in the image) above a layer of clouds created these breaking wave-like curls. The same phenomenon creates many of the ocean’s waves from the shear caused by wind blowing across water. (Image credit: H. Martin, via EPOD)

  • Reader Question: Waves Breaking

    Reader Question: Waves Breaking

    As a follow-up to the recent waves post, reader robotslenderman asks:

    What does it look like when the wave breaks? And why do waves sometimes push us back? Why are we able to ride them?

    I wasn’t able to find an equivalent breaking wave version of that dyed wave – side note: readers with flumes, please feel free to make one and share it! – but here’s an undyed breaking wave for our reference.

    Waves break, or get that white, frothy look, when they reach shallower water. In the previous post, the waves we saw were effectively deep-water waves, so they didn’t change in height as they rolled across the tank. Here there’s an incline to simulate a beach, which causes the water to slow down and steepen. That forms the characteristic curl of a plunging breaker, seen here.

    At the beach, a wave runs out of water to pass through and all the energy that wave was carrying has to go somewhere. Some is lost as heat, some turns into the sound of that classic crashing wave, and a lot of it gets dissipated as turbulence that pushes us, sand, shells, and anything else its way.

    As for why we can ride waves, there’s some special physics at play when it comes to surfing. To catch a wave, a surfer has to paddle hard to get up to the wave’s speed just as it reaches them. Too slow and the wave will just pass them by, leaving them bobbing more or less in place. (Image credit: T. Shand, source)

  • How Waves Travel

    How Waves Travel

    When playing in the surf, it’s easy to imagine that the incoming waves are a wall of water crashing into the shore. And, in a way they are, but probably less so than you imagine. Waves travel through a medium, whether it’s solid or fluid, but for the most part, they’re not translating the medium itself. You can see that in the animation above by watching the dye beneath the surface. The passing waves don’t cause much mixing in the dye, and though their passage distorts the underlying water, we see that everything returns more or less to its starting position once the wave has passed. (Image credit: S. Morris, source)

  • Sound Waves

  • Hiding From Waves

    Hiding From Waves

    Ocean waves can be dangerous for boats, particularly when operating near off-shore platforms. But a new study, inspired by electromagnetic waveguides, demonstrates a lab-scale water waveguide capable of damping out a range of waves experienced by any ship inside its protected area. The water waveguide sits below the surface, changing the water depth and therefore the propagation of surface waves. 

    When properly positioned, the waveguide nearly eliminates wave motion in a protected channel. You can see this in the right image, where waves are clearly present in the foreground but the toy boat hardly moves. Contrast this with the image on the left, where the boat bobs and rocks under the same wave conditions without the waveguide. The researchers hope their waveguide concept can help protect ships in wharves and harbors soon. (Image and research credit: S. Zou et al.; via APS Physics; submitted by Kam-Yung Soh)

  • Plasma Shock Waves

    Plasma Shock Waves

    Solar flares and coronal mass ejections send out shock waves that reverberate through our solar system. But shock waves through plasma – the ionized, high-energy particles making up the solar wind – do not behave like our typical terrestrial ones. Instead of traveling through collisions between particles, these astrophysical shock waves are driven by interactions between moving, charged particles and magnetic fields. 

    A driving burst of plasma accelerated into ambient plasma creates electromagnetic forces that accelerate ambient ions to supersonic speeds, pushing the shock wave onward even without particles directly colliding. Thus far, piecing together the physics of these interactions has been a challenge because spacecraft are limited in what and where they can measure. But a group here on Earth has now recreated and observed some of this process in the lab. (Image credit: NASA Solar Dynamics Observatory; research credit: D. Schaeffer et al.; via phys.org)

  • Rogue Waves

    Rogue Waves

    After centuries of tales from sailors, in 1995 the Draupner off-shore platform recorded the first ever evidence of a freak wave – a single, wall-like wave steeper and taller than any other waves around it. Theories have been tossed back and forth for the last quarter century as to how the Draupner wave formed, but now a group of researchers report they have recreated a lab-scale version of this is famous wave. 

    They did so in a wave pool by making two smaller groups of waves cross one another at about 120 degrees (top). The interaction of those wave packets generated a much larger, steeper wave (bottom image sequence) that matched the profile of the Draupner wave. Recreating this past freak wave confirms that wave-crossing can lead to freak waves, which will hopefully help us forecast when conditions may be right for more to occur. (Image credit and research credit: M. McAllister et al., source; via Motherboard; submitted by Kam-Yung Soh)

  • Seeing Shock Waves

    Seeing Shock Waves

    This week NASA released the first-ever image of shock waves interacting between two supersonic aircraft. It’s a stunning effort, requiring a cutting-edge version of a century-old photographic technique and perfect coordination between three airplanes – the two supersonic Air Force T-38s and the NASA B-200 King Air that captured the image. The T-38s are flying in formation, roughly 30 ft apart, and the interaction of their shock waves is distinctly visible. The otherwise straight lines curve sharply near their intersections.

    Fully capturing this kind of behavior in ground-based tests or in computer simulation is incredibly difficult, and engineers will no doubt be studying and comparing every one of these images with those smaller-scale counterparts. NASA developed this system as part of their ongoing project for commercial supersonic technologies. (Image credit: NASA Armstrong; submitted by multiple readers)

  • Amber Waves

    Amber Waves

    When I was a teenager, I liked riding my bike along the river boardwalk near my house. There were fields there, like those in the image above and video below, with tall grass that would bend and sway in the wind. The long stalks undulated almost like a fluid, and they were mesmerizing. This video gives you a higher vantage point, where you can see the larger patterns of motion. What you’re seeing, I think, are some of the large-scale turbulent variations in the wind. Rather than being uniform and laminar, the wind contains pockets of turbulent gusts, which the sway of the long grass reveals to the naked eye. In terms of physical mechanism, I suspect it’s similar to how wind imprints its patterns on water. (Video and image credit: N. Moore)

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