FYFD

Tag: wave pool

  • Rogue Waves

    Rogue Waves

    After centuries of tales from sailors, in 1995 the Draupner off-shore platform recorded the first ever evidence of a freak wave – a single, wall-like wave steeper and taller than any other waves around it. Theories have been tossed back and forth for the last quarter century as to how the Draupner wave formed, but now a group of researchers report they have recreated a lab-scale version of this is famous wave. 

    They did so in a wave pool by making two smaller groups of waves cross one another at about 120 degrees (top). The interaction of those wave packets generated a much larger, steeper wave (bottom image sequence) that matched the profile of the Draupner wave. Recreating this past freak wave confirms that wave-crossing can lead to freak waves, which will hopefully help us forecast when conditions may be right for more to occur. (Image credit and research credit: M. McAllister et al., source; via Motherboard; submitted by Kam-Yung Soh)

  • Kelly Slater’s Surf Ranch

    Kelly Slater’s Surf Ranch

    Many of us who grew up visiting water parks instead of ocean beaches have spent time bobbing in a wave pool. They’ve been around for decades. But a new generation of wave pools are aiming for a different goal: the perfect surf wave. One of the foremost current facilities is Kelly Slater’s Surf Ranch, shown above. Here a hydrofoil (draped in blue tarps on the left) is pulled along an artificial lagoon to create dozens of wave profiles, all engineered to give surfers a long ride on the perfect solitary wave.

    Other facilities, like the surf ranch used by USA Surfing in Waco, Texas, design their waves with different goals in mind. The Waco wave pool uses air pressure to drive their waves, and aims for a larger quantity of shorter waves. They’re designed to help young surfers practice skills they’re working on, and to give them a place where they can experience waves like those they’ll face in the upcoming 2020 Olympics in Tokyo. (Image credit: R. Young/WIRED; CNet, source; submitted by Lionel V.)