Surfers come in many forms — humans, robots, birds, and even honeybees. Most of the time, though, we see surfers above the water. In this award-winning photo, on the other hand, the surfing penguin shoots by beneath the water, riding beneath the wave’s crest. Keeping pace with the breaking wave should be no trouble for a penguin. They waddle awkwardly on land, but they have incredible speed in the water. Years ago, a penguin streaked past me in the water like a rocket to my paper airplane. (Image credit: L. Fitze/BPOTY)
Tag: surfing
Beneath the Surf
A surfer duck-dives beneath a passing wave in this image from photographer John Barton. I always love seeing big waves from this underwater perspective. The turbulent surf looks like storm clouds, and sometimes you see features that are invisible from the surface. Barton’s shot captures the dichotomy of serenity and chaos in the breaking surf. (Image credit: J. Barton/OPOTY; via Colossal)
Paris 2024: Gunwale Bobbing
In the Olympics, you won’t see anyone win a rowing event without a paddle, but it turns out that you don’t really need one for a canoe or paddleboard. How can you get around when you’ve lost your paddle? You stand up on one end and start bobbing. This is known as gunwale (pronounced gunnel) bobbing, and it’s pretty impressively effective! With optimal parameters, scientists found that a canoe could move about 1 m/s with the technique.
As the bobber pushes, it generates an asymmetric wave field on the water surface. The canoe or paddleboard then essentially surfs those waves, turning the vertical displacement into a horizontal thrust. The researchers expect that the effect matters for competitive rowing, too, where the athletes’ rowing motions cause some vertical displacement. Clearly, the biggest effect comes from the oars themselves, but optimal bobbing could provide enough of an edge to ensure the gold. (Image credit: top – R. Chisu; others – G. Benham et al.; research credit: G. Benham et al.; via APS Physics; submitted by Kam-Yung Soh)
Related topics: Optimizing oar length, vorticity around an oar, and a vibration-propelled biorobot
See more of our past and ongoing Olympic coverage here.
Swarm of Surfers
Self-propelled objects can form fascinating patterns. Here, researchers investigate how small plastic “surfers” move on a vibrating fluid. Each surfer is heavier in its stern than its bow. When the fluid vibrates, the surfer creates waves that are asymmetric — deeper in the stern than at the bow. For single surfers, this imbalance propels the surfer in the direction of its bow. But with more than one surfer, other patterns form.
The video demonstrates five of the seven patterns pairs of surfers exhibit. The team looked at groups of surfers all the way up to eight members. Among pairs, the researchers found seven distinctive patterns, including orbiting groups, tailgaters, and promenading pairs. Larger groups, they found, had similar collective behaviors. They hope their surfers will be an easily accessible platform for exploring active matter. (Image and research credit: I. Ho et al.; via APS Physics)
Beneath the Waves
Surfing looks entirely different from below the wave. Photographer Ben Thouard captures his images by freediving and observing what goes on overhead. Whether the surfers nearby ride a barrel roll or bail into the churn, the results are incredible. You can find more of Thouard’s artwork on his website and Instagram. (Image credit: B. Thouard; via Oceanographic Magazine)
Little Surfer
Here’s another look at SurferBot, a low-cost, vibration-based robot capable of traversing both water and land. SurferBot’s vibration creates asymmetric ripples on the water surface. Because the waves are bigger at the rear of the robot, it gets propelled forward. But there doesn’t have to be water for SurferBot to get around! It’s actually amphibious, moving on both land and water. It can even transition from land to water on its own. (Image and video credit: E. Rhee et al.; research credit: E. Rhee et al.)
“Water III”
In “Water III,” filmmaker Morgan Maassen explores the ocean from above and below. I love the sheer variety of fluid phenomena; yes, there are classic breaking barrel waves for surfing, but there are also rib vortices and bubble plumes and churning turbulence that wouldn’t be out of place in a stormy Midwestern sky. Enjoy! (Image and video credit: M. Maassen)
Rip Currents
Rip currents — also known as rips — are a threat to beachgoers around the world, and, unfortunately, they’re often underestimated or misunderstood. As waves crash on the shore, water must find a path back out to sea, often through deeper channels that provide a break between the waves. These flow paths are rip currents, and they can form, shift, and intensify with little warning.
Over the years, researchers have found that efforts to educate beachgoers through signs, flags, and other methods once at the beach have done little to help visitors understand, avoid, or escape rips. Instead, it’s better to educate people long before the water is in sight. Since no one method is guaranteed success for escaping a rip, it’s better to learn to recognize and avoid these dangerous areas. Check out the video below for advice on spotting rips, and here’s a video showing rips from a surfer’s perspective, as well as one using dye flow visualization to mark a rip. Be safe and smart out there! (Image credit: P. Auitpol; video credit: Surf Life Saving Australia; via Hakai Magazine; submitted by Kam-Yung Soh)
Surf’s Up
Surfers flock to northern Peru to enjoy what’s been called the world’s longest wave. These waves are generated by storms thousands of miles away in the Pacific and Southern Oceans. In the open water between, the waves sort themselves into groups of similar wavelength and speed. With the deep water off Peru, the large swells continue to travel together until close to the shore. Surfers also benefit from the tendency for incoming waves to arrive nearly parallel to the coastline, creating long shoreline stretches for breaking. Where many famous wave breaks can be ridden for seconds, surfers can ride these for minutes! (Image credit: L. Dauphin; via NASA Earth Observatory)
Surf’s Up!
Inspired by honeybees and their ability to surf on capillary waves of their own making, researchers have developed SurferBot, a low-cost, untethered, vibration-driven surf robot. Built on a simple 3D-printed platform, the bot has a vibration motor powered by a simple coin cell battery. As the motor vibrates, it propels the bot forward (Image 2). With the motor placed off-center, the bot’s vibrations create larger capillary waves at the rear of the bot than at the front (Image 3). It’s this asymmetry that drives the robot forward. The flow pattern created by the bot’s propulsion is impressively strong (Image 4) and consists of a pair of counter-rotating vortices trapped ahead of the bot and a strong central jet in its wake.
Best of all: SurferBot is a great platform for educational experimentation, costing <$1 apiece! (Image and submission credit: D. Harris; research credit: E. Rhee et al.)
