On the north shore of O’ahu, Hawaii, Banzai Pipeline is known for some of the most thrilling and deadly surfing in the world. The area’s barrel rolls are triggered when incoming waves break over the shallow reef. Photographer Kevin Krautgartner captures the waves from above, showcasing the incredible energy inherent in the ocean. The motion and texture of the water is mesmerizing. I feel like I could stare at these all day long! (Image credit: K. Krautgartner; via Colossal)
In the ocean, waves often curl over and trap air, becoming plunging breakers. How do surfactants like soap or oil affect this process? That’s the question behind this video, where researchers visualize breaking waves with differing amounts of added surfactant. In the case of pure water, the wave forms a smooth jet that curls over and traps air when the wave breaks. As more and more surfactant gets added, the shape of that jet and cavity change. In one case, they become irregular. In another, they disappear entirely, and with the most surfactant added, the wave suddenly looks just like the water-only case.
The key to these behaviors, it turns out, is not how much surfactant there is, but how much the concentration of surfactant varies along the length of the wave. When there are significant changes in the surfactant concentration along the wave, local Marangoni flows try to even out the surface tension, causing the wave to break up in an irregular fashion. (Image and video credit: M. Erinin et al.)
Surfing looks entirely different from below the wave. Photographer Ben Thouard captures his images by freediving and observing what goes on overhead. Whether the surfers nearby ride a barrel roll or bail into the churn, the results are incredible. You can find more of Thouard’s artwork on his website and Instagram. (Image credit: B. Thouard; via Oceanographic Magazine)
In a lab, researchers create their waves in a long, clear-sided tank, where they can observe how the waves form, travel, and interact. To generate the wave, they use a plate, attached to a piston. Push the water at one end, and a wave forms. The type of wave that forms depends on both the velocity and the stroke length of the piston, as shown in this video. By mapping out these two variables, researchers can observe all different sorts of waves, from peaceful solitary waves to wild, plunging breakers. (Image and video credit: W. Sarlin et al.)
Australian photographer Ray Collins captures some of the most impressively dynamic photographs of ocean waves I’ve ever seen. The textures of the water range from glassy smooth to scaled to violent sprays of droplets. You can easily get lost in every image. For more, check out his website and Instagram. (Image credits: R. Collins; via Colossal)
After the 2018 Anak Krakatoa eruption, a tsunami that ricocheted through the surrounding waters, killing hundreds on nearby islands. The source of that tsunami was a small landslide. Once the air cleared and researchers could assess how much material slid into the ocean, they were shocked that such a small volume created so much destruction.
Now new efforts are revealing the linkage between landslides and the waves they make. Researchers released glass beads into a tank of water, observing the waves that form as the beads run out. Depending on the relative initial height of the beads compared to the water depth, they observed three different kinds of waves. Not only that, they were able to connect the granular mechanics of the landslide to the hydrodynamic formation of waves, allowing predictions of the waves that will form for a given landslide.
Currently, the predictive model isn’t sophisticated enough to handle a geometry as complex as that of the Anak Krakatoa landslide, but it’s an important step toward understanding — and potentially mitigating the damage of — future oceanside landslides. (Image and research credit: W. Sarlin et al.; via APS Physics; submitted by Kam-Yung Soh)
Photographer Lloyd Meudell captures breathtaking images of ocean waves off his home shores of New South Wales. The waveforms and lighting combine to create infinite variety in shape and texture. Some waves look like towering mountain landscapes; some look like glass sculptures. Every one of them draws you into the ocean’s power. (Image credit: L. Meudell; via Bored Panda)
In “Water III,” filmmaker Morgan Maassen explores the ocean from above and below. I love the sheer variety of fluid phenomena; yes, there are classic breaking barrel waves for surfing, but there are also rib vortices and bubble plumes and churning turbulence that wouldn’t be out of place in a stormy Midwestern sky. Enjoy! (Image and video credit: M. Maassen)
Rip currents — also known as rips — are a threat to beachgoers around the world, and, unfortunately, they’re often underestimated or misunderstood. As waves crash on the shore, water must find a path back out to sea, often through deeper channels that provide a break between the waves. These flow paths are rip currents, and they can form, shift, and intensify with little warning.
Over the years, researchers have found that efforts to educate beachgoers through signs, flags, and other methods once at the beach have done little to help visitors understand, avoid, or escape rips. Instead, it’s better to educate people long before the water is in sight. Since no one method is guaranteed success for escaping a rip, it’s better to learn to recognize and avoid these dangerous areas. Check out the video below for advice on spotting rips, and here’s a video showing rips from a surfer’s perspective, as well as one using dye flow visualization to mark a rip. Be safe and smart out there! (Image credit: P. Auitpol; video credit: Surf Life Saving Australia; via Hakai Magazine; submitted by Kam-Yung Soh)
Surfers flock to northern Peru to enjoy what’s been called the world’s longest wave. These waves are generated by storms thousands of miles away in the Pacific and Southern Oceans. In the open water between, the waves sort themselves into groups of similar wavelength and speed. With the deep water off Peru, the large swells continue to travel together until close to the shore. Surfers also benefit from the tendency for incoming waves to arrive nearly parallel to the coastline, creating long shoreline stretches for breaking. Where many famous wave breaks can be ridden for seconds, surfers can ride these for minutes! (Image credit: L. Dauphin; via NASA Earth Observatory)