Phenomena

Classifying Waves

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In a lab, researchers create their waves in a long, clear-sided tank, where they can observe how the waves form, travel, and interact. To generate the wave, they use a plate, attached to a piston. Push the water at one end, and a wave forms. The type of wave that forms depends on both the velocity and the stroke length of the piston, as shown in this video. By mapping out these two variables, researchers can observe all different sorts of waves, from peaceful solitary waves to wild, plunging breakers. (Image and video credit: W. Sarlin et al.)

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