Seaweed sways in the surf in this photograph by Billy Arthur. I always love how waves look like a stormy sky when viewed from below. This image is extra neat because of the contrast with the sunbeams shining through the still surface on the right side of the image. Sun and storm on the verge of colliding. (Image credit: B. Arthur/BWPA; via Colossal)
On Earth, most waves form when wind blows across the water. The shear and added energy from the wind ripples the surface, eventually building up waves (through the Kelvin-Helmholtz instability). The same process should happen anywhere else where wind and open liquid surfaces meet–even on other planets. To explore this, researchers built a new model, PlanetWaves, that predicts the waves based on a planet’s gravity, atmospheric conditions, and the density, viscosity, and surface tension of its surface liquid.
After validating the model with conditions on Earth, the team explored wave conditions for Titan, ancient Mars, and several exoplanets. They found that Titan’s lighter gravity and liquid ethane (which is less dense than water) combined to make waves on Titan much taller than those generated at the same wind speed on Earth (top image). You can watch them in action in the video below. Standing in a light breeze on Titan, you’d watch giant 3-meter waves rolling in.
The team also found that waves on Mars would have gotten shorter as Mars lost its atmosphere and the air pressure dropped. Over time, the same wind speed would have elicited smaller and smaller waves. Wave action has a big effect on a landscape’s erosion, so understanding how waves look on other planets will help us parse their geography. (Video, image, and research credit: U. Schneck et al.; via MIT News; submitted by Joseph S.)
Photographer Jan Erik Waider is a master of capturing incredible landscape imagery. In these videos, he uses a drone to film waves in the Baltic Sea gently undulating polygonal slabs of ice on the ocean surface. The interplay of light, color, and motion looks almost surreal, but nature is better than we credit at making imagery too good to look away from. (Video and image credit: J. Waider/NorthLandscapes; via Colossal)
When hurricanes hit coasts, they bring with them incredible storm surge, which puts buildings right in the middle of ocean waves. To understand how to better protect against those conditions, engineers use facilities like the Directional Wave Basin to create smaller-scale versions of hurricanes. In this Practical Engineering video, Grady visited during a test that compared two identical one-third-scale houses subjected to the same storm conditions–except that one house had an additional foot (3ft at real-scale) of elevation. The results are pretty spectacular.
This isn’t a short video, but it’s well-worth a watch. I think Grady does a great job of explaining why engineers need (admittedly) expensive facilities like this one to help guide both engineering and regulatory decisions. (Video and image credit: Practical Engineering)
Photographer Kevin Krautgartner captures the powerful waves of Western Australia from above. His latest series, Waves | Ocean Forces, features luminous turquoise waves, crystalline foam, and brilliant beaches. I could delight in staring at them for hours. Fortunately, he sells prints on his website! (Image credit: K. Krautgartner; via Colossal)
Winds from the north made for wild conditions at Nazaré in Portugal. Photographer Ben Thouard caught these crashing waves in the late afternoon, when the low sun angle illuminated the spray of the surf. Every year teratons of salt and biomass move from the ocean to the atmosphere, much of it through turbulent wave action driven by the wind. Here, the wind rips droplets off of wave crests, but smaller droplets reach the atmosphere when bubbles–trapped underwater by crashing waves–reach the surface and burst. (Image credit: B. Thouard/OPOTY; via Colossal)
Look beneath the waves on a beach or in a bay, and you’ll find ripples in the sand. Passing waves shape these sandforms and can even build them to heights that require dredging to keep waterways passable to large ships. To better understand how the sand interacts with the flow, researchers build computer models that couple the flow of the water with the behavior of individual sand grains. One recent study found that sand grains experienced the most shear stress as the flow first accelerates and then again when a vortex forms near the crest of the ripple. (Image credit: D. Hall; research credit: S. DeVoe et al.; via Eos)
Transferring cargo between ships and landing aircraft on carriers requires predicting how the waves will behave for the next few minutes. That’s a notoriously difficult task for several reasons: rough seas can hide a ship radar’s view and the inherent nonlinearity of ocean waves means that they can occasionally coalesce unexpectedly large (“rogue“) waves, seemingly from nowhere.
A new study describes a technique for improving sea state predictions. In their model, the team first use multiple radar returns to average out gaps in the current wave state data, then feed that interpolated data into a prediction algorithm that includes nonlinearities up to the third-order. The results, they found, gave far better predictions than current techniques, some of which had errors 3 times as high. (Image credit: R. Ding; research credit: J. Yao et al.; via APS News)
When it comes to the beach, looks can be deceiving. That calm-looking water to the side of big crashing waves may actually be a rip current that carries water back out to the ocean. Rip currents are a result of conservation of mass; just as waves carry water to the shore, something has to carry that incoming water back out to the ocean. Depending on the local topography, that outflow could be below the water surface, creating an undertow, or along the surface, as a rip current.
Even when far offshore, hurricanes can trigger unexpected and strong rip currents, largely because they create bigger waves that travel shoreward. Those waves can also change the depth and layout of the underwater shoreline, potentially exacerbating rip currents.
For more on rip currents, including the latest guidance on how to escape one, check out this article. (Image credit: A. Marlowe; via SciAm)
Where sea and sand meet, Gaia’s spine rises. Photographer Satheesh Nair captured this striking image in western Australia, where wind and wave action have dragged a dune into vertebrae-like cusps. Notice how the size and shape of the curves differs between the under- and above-water sections. Those differences reflect the differing forces that shape them — just water for one set, water and air for the other. (Image credit: S. Nair/IAPOTY; via Colossal)
