Month: April 2013

  • Reader Question: More Standing Waves

    corroding-touch asks:

    So, further to the wave question, how about pressure? How does the pressure in a fixed spot beneath a wave vary, and how does this change with depth?

    The primary factor for pressure at any point in the water is depth. Deeper water means a higher pressure. So if you imagine your fixed point at a particular depth relative to a flat ocean, it will have some nominal pressure dependent on its depth. Waves passing induce a higher-than-nominal pressure at the fixed point as the crest passes overhead and a lower-than-nominal pressure as the trough passes. Basically, the waves cause a fluctuation in pressure around some nominal point. As you increase in depth, the fluctuation will have less and less effect because the nominal pressure is ever increasing.

  • Reader Question: Standing Waves

    Reader Question: Standing Waves

    captainandry asks:

    What would happen to a fish or swimmer in a standing wave?

    First of all, check out the video that inspired this question, which shows a standing water wave created in a wave tank. Before we tackle the standing wave, it’s helpful to know what motion exists in a typical water wave. For deep water waves, the motion of a particle as the waves pass is circular, with a decreasing radius with increasing depth. Below a certain depth the energy of the surface wave doesn’t penetrate. Here’s an animation, where the red dots represent massless particles and the blue circles show their paths:

    In shallower waters, the circular paths get compressed into ellipses. The image below shows pathlines for particles at different depths as a water wave passes. Notice how the paths are circular near the surface, where the depth is much greater than the wavelength, while close to the bottom, the pathlines are elliptical.

    So what about motion for a standing water wave? Such a wave has no apparent horizontal motion, as seen in the animation below:

    Similar to the way that decreasing the depth compresses the circular particle motion into an ellipsoid, creating a standing wave compresses the horizontal motion of any particle near the surface. What this means is that anything floating near the surface of the standing wave will simply bob up and down. Unless it’s located at one of the nodes (marked by red dots), in which case it won’t move at all! As with the other types of water waves, the amount of displacement will decrease with depth. People and fish, of course, are not massless particles, so their motion will be damped by inertia, but the same principles apply.

    (Photo credits: P. Videtich; R. L. Wiegel and J.W. Johnson; Wikipedia)

  • Egg-Spinning Fun

    Egg-Spinning Fun

    If you have any leftover hard-boiled eggs, you can recreate this bit of fluid dynamical fun. Spin the egg through a puddle of milk, and you’ll find that the egg draws liquid up from the puddle and flights it out in a series of jets. As the egg spins, it drags the milk it touches with it. Points closer to the egg’s equator have a higher velocity because they travel a larger distance with each rotation. This variation in velocities creates a favorable pressure gradient that draws milk up the sides of the egg as it spins, creating a simple pump. To see the effect in action check out this Science Friday video or the BYU Splash Lab’s Easter-themed video. (Photo credit: BYU Splash Lab)