FYFD

Tag: freak waves

  • Rogue Waves

    Rogue Waves

    After centuries of tales from sailors, in 1995 the Draupner off-shore platform recorded the first ever evidence of a freak wave – a single, wall-like wave steeper and taller than any other waves around it. Theories have been tossed back and forth for the last quarter century as to how the Draupner wave formed, but now a group of researchers report they have recreated a lab-scale version of this is famous wave. 

    They did so in a wave pool by making two smaller groups of waves cross one another at about 120 degrees (top). The interaction of those wave packets generated a much larger, steeper wave (bottom image sequence) that matched the profile of the Draupner wave. Recreating this past freak wave confirms that wave-crossing can lead to freak waves, which will hopefully help us forecast when conditions may be right for more to occur. (Image credit and research credit: M. McAllister et al., source; via Motherboard; submitted by Kam-Yung Soh)

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    Rogue Wave Recreated

    For years, mariners have reported occurrences of rogue waves–sudden, isolated waves many times larger than the surrounding surface waves. Until 1995, when a rogue wave was first measured, debate raged as to whether such waves even existed. Scientists have since agreed that nonlinear models of wave interaction are the most likely source of the amplification necessary to create rogue waves. Since the Navier-Stokes equations that govern hydrodynamics are so difficult to solve, scientists have looked to simpler nonlinear wave equations, like the nonlinear Schroedinger equation that governs optics, to generate rogue-wave-like behavior. While the equation gives insight into how a given wave system will evolve, it is still necessary to determine what initial conditions can lead to the formation of a rogue wave. All manner of random conditions exist in the ocean, but to recreate the behavior in a simplified system, we must know which initial conditions are the right ones. Akhmediev et al presented a theoretical perspective on the initial conditions that might lead to rogue wave amplification, and now, for the first time, researchers have been able to create a rogue wave in a wave tank. That little blip that sinks the Lego pirate ship is a great accomplishment toward understanding a phenomenon whose very existence was in question less than twenty years ago. (Video credit: A Chabchoub, N Hoffmann, and N Akhmediev; via Gizmodo; for more, see APS Viewpoints and Akhmediev et al)