FYFD

Tag: beach

  • Turning the Beach Pink

    Turning the Beach Pink

    Lab experiments and numerical simulations can only take us so far; sometimes there’s no substitute for getting out into the field. That’s why a beach in San Diego turned pink this January and February, as researchers released a safe, non-toxic dye into an estuary. The goal is to understand how small freshwater sources mix with colder, saltier ocean waters when they meet in the surf zone. Differences in temperature and salinity both affect the waters’ density and, therefore, how they’ll combine, especially in the face of the turbulent surf. Using drones, distributed sensors, and a specially-outfitted jet ski, the researchers collect data about how the dye (and therefore the estuary’s water) spreads over the 24 hours following each dye release. Check out their experiment’s site to learn more. (Image credits: E. Jepsen/A. Simpson/UC San Diego; via SFGate; submitted by Emily R.)

  • Rip Currents

    Rip Currents

    Rip currents — also known as rips — are a threat to beachgoers around the world, and, unfortunately, they’re often underestimated or misunderstood. As waves crash on the shore, water must find a path back out to sea, often through deeper channels that provide a break between the waves. These flow paths are rip currents, and they can form, shift, and intensify with little warning.

    Over the years, researchers have found that efforts to educate beachgoers through signs, flags, and other methods once at the beach have done little to help visitors understand, avoid, or escape rips. Instead, it’s better to educate people long before the water is in sight. Since no one method is guaranteed success for escaping a rip, it’s better to learn to recognize and avoid these dangerous areas. Check out the video below for advice on spotting rips, and here’s a video showing rips from a surfer’s perspective, as well as one using dye flow visualization to mark a rip. Be safe and smart out there! (Image credit: P. Auitpol; video credit: Surf Life Saving Australia; via Hakai Magazine; submitted by Kam-Yung Soh)

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    Sand Ripples

    Wave motion in a bay or near a beach can cause significant sediment transport. Individual granular particles, like sand, can be lifted by the passage of a single wave, but, over time, complex patterns form as the granular bottom surface shifts due to the waves. This video shows time-lapse footage of the ripples that form and move in submerged sand during many hours of wave motion. A slight imperfection in the surface causes a network of sand ripples to grow and spread. Once formed, those ripples shift and reform depending on changes in the wave conditions. (Video credit: T. Parron et al.)

  • Beach Cusps

    Beach Cusps

    Beach cusps are arc-like patterns of sediment that appear on shorelines around the world. Cusps consist of horns, made up of coarse materials, connected by a curved embayment that contains finer particles. They are regular and periodic in their spacing and usually only a few meters across. A couple of theories exist as to how cusps form, but once they do, they are self-sustaining. When an incoming wave hits a horn, the water splits and diverts. The impact of the wave on the horn slows the water, causing it to deposit heavy, coarse particles on the horns while finer sediment gets carried up to the embayment before the wave flows back outward. (Photo credit: L. Tella; inspired by E. Wiebe)