From below a plunging breaking wave–the classic surfer’s wave–looks like a giant vortex tube. Smaller rib vortices, the rings around the main vortex in the photo above, can form where there are variations along the breaking wave. As the wave rolls on, it stretches the vorticity variations along the wave’s span. When stretched, vortices spin up and intensify; this is a result of conservation of angular momentum. Check out more amazing photos of waves in Ray Collins’ portfolio. (Photo credit: R. Collins; via The Inertia)
Tag: breaking wave
Reader Question: Wave Vortex
Reader unquietcode asks:
I saw this post recently and it made me wonder what’s going on. If you look in the upper right of the frame as the camera submerges, you can see a little vortex of water whirring about. Even with the awesome power of the wave rolling forward a little tornado of water seems able to stably form. Any idea what causes this phenomenon?
This awesome clip was taken from John John Florence’s “& Again” surf video. What you’re seeing is the vortex motion of a plunging breaking wave. As ocean waves approach the shore, the water depth decreases, which amplifies the wave’s height. When the wave reaches a critical height, it breaks and begins to lose its energy to turbulence. There are multiple kinds of breaking waves, but plungers are the classic surfer’s wave. These waves become steep enough that the top of the wave overturns and plunges into the water ahead of the wave. This generates the vortex-like tube you see in the animation. Such waves can produce complicated three-dimensional vortex structures like those seen in this video by Clark Little. Any initial variation in the main vortex gets stretched as the wave rolls on, and this spins up and strengthens the rib vortices seen wrapped around the primary vortex. (Source video: B. Kueny and J. Florence)
Breaking Waves
Most beach-goers have probably wondered just what makes the waves coming in to shore rear up and break. The secret lies in the depths–or rather the lack thereof–beneath the waves. Far from shore, the wave’s length scale is small compared to the ocean depth, and the ocean’s bottom is effectively infinitely far away to all parts of the wave. But, as the wave rolls toward shore, the depth decreases and the ocean bottom begins to influence the wave. In the trough, the ocean bottom slows the wave. Meanwhile, the crest of the wave carries forward, rising until its height reaches 80% of the water depth, at which point it will tip over and break.(Video credit: BBC)
Following a Breaking Wave
It’s fascinating to sit on the beach and watch the waves roll in and break, but rarely do we get a view like the one in this video. Here researchers have created a breaking wave in a wave tank and recorded the wave as it travels the length of the tank with a high-speed camera moving at the same speed as the wave crest. This perspective, moving alongside the fluid, is a Lagrangian coordinate system; if one instead stood still and watched the wave roll past, it would be an Eulerian measurement. Traveling with the wave, we can see how a lip forms on the wave crest, then rolls down, capturing a tube of air. As water begins to flow over the lip, perturbations grow, causing ripples in the laminar curtain. Then the water strikes the main wave and rebounds turbulently, creating a familiar white cap. In the second half of the video, the process is shown from above, highlighting the entrainment of air and the creation of the bubbles that form the white cap of a breaking wave. (Video credit: R. Liu et al)
